Valentino's Paris Show

Alessandro Michele's collection features see-through fabrics and mis-buttoned blazers, playing with the idea of glamour in the wrong way. The show was held at the Sainte-Geneviève library during Paris fashion week.

Photo: Photo as published by Vogue

Alessandro Michele, the Italian designer, presented his fifth show as creative director of Valentino at Paris fashion week on Sunday. The collection included satin bustier tops paired with knee-length skirts, some of which were almost see-through in gauzy fabrics.

The show featured clothes made for the dancefloor, with debauched partying mood dominating menswear. Creased trousers and silky boxers peeking out above waistbands and mis-buttoned double-breasted blazers were part of the collection.

Michele said he liked playing with the idea of glamour in the wrong way. He described sensuality as part of the vocabulary of the brand, and this time around, he had pared back his signature voluminous silhouettes, instead focusing on exposing skin.

The reaction to Michele at Valentino has been mixed, with the brand's revenue declining 15% to €1.12bn in 2025. However, the reign of quiet luxury is quietly coming to a close, and personality dressing is on the rise, with Michele poised to take advantage.

Celebrities such as Naomi Watts, Alexander Skarsgård, and Zoey Deutch attended the show, which was held at the Bibliothèque Sainte Geneviève. Guests were asked to bring a favorite book, and the event featured a stacked lineup of stars.

Zoey Deutch brought Elizabeth Kolbert's The Sixth Extinction, a Pulitzer Prize-winning nonfiction book. Other notable attendees included Cynthia Erivo, Anna Wintour, and Colman Domingo.

The show explored the idea of the antilibrary, connecting unread books with unworn clothes. Valentino's founder, Valentino Garavani, famously hated the casualisation of fashion, but Michele likes to toy with codes.

The collection featured longer length ruffle and bow-adorned dresses, which had a Hollywood feel to them. Michele wore a brightly colored baseball cap emblazoned with Villain Teen, and some models wore similar caps.

Key facts

  • Alessandro Michele presented his fifth show as creative director of Valentino at Paris fashion week.
  • The collection featured see-through fabrics and mis-buttoned blazers.
  • The show was held at the Sainte-Geneviève library.
  • Celebrities such as Naomi Watts and Zoey Deutch attended the event.

Three perspectives

Neutral

The show was a mix of glamour and casualisation, with Michele playing with the idea of glamour in the wrong way. The event featured a stacked lineup of celebrities, and the collection explored the idea of the antilibrary. The reaction to Michele at Valentino has been mixed, with the brand's revenue declining in 2025.

Positive

Michele's collection was a bold and exciting take on fashion, with a focus on sensuality and exposing skin. The show was a success, with many celebrities in attendance, and the collection featured some stunning pieces, including longer length ruffle and bow-adorned dresses.

Negative

The reaction to Michele at Valentino has been mixed, with some critics feeling that his style is not in line with the brand's traditional values. The brand's revenue has declined, and some have questioned whether Michele's approach is the right one for Valentino.

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